Wild wild Northwest: How to conquer Canadas rugged territories

With a waterfall twice the height of Niagara, the longest remote hiking trail in North America, and a population of just 44,000, the Northwest Territories is a land of wild extremes.Most travelers who make it to this vast tundra, more than two-and-a-half times the size of California with 10 times more caribou than people, are following the light. Situated right under the Earth’s band of maximal auroral activity, it shines with 240 nights of nature’s answer to an ’80s rock laser show. But once they’ve arrived, they tend to stay. “The abundance of the land stands unique in an increasingly industrialized North America,” said Joel Hibbard, a second-generation river guide and co-owner of Nahanni River Adventures.“Vibrant culture and a landscape that bears the marks of the last ice age set the stage for an experience found nowhere else on earth.” Wondering where to start? We’ve got you covered. All roads in the Northwest Territories lead to Yellowknife, whether you’re heading onward to the arctic or chasing the aurora across the horizon.

“Due to its gold-mining history, people might picture one of those remote Wild West towns with one main street and a couple of cabins,” said Tyler Abela, marketing director of Northwest Territories Tourism.Yet Yellowknife offers plenty to see and do from browsing museums packed with artifacts and dining on fresh-caught cod at Bullock’s Bistro to exploring Houseboat Bay, a one-of-a-kind community.

There’s even a Tim Hortons. If the aurora eluded you in Iceland, Greenland and Norway, it’s time to head to the Northwest Territories where, statistically speaking, luck should favor you.“We have no mountains and no oceans, which create an unstable, cloudy weather system,” said Joe Bailey, owner of North Star Adventures.

“That equals more clear nights than any other aurora country in the world.” Increase your odds even further by joining Bailey, who earned the nickname “Aurora Hunte...