The 'Love Story' effect is just the start: How fashion brands are reshaping costume design

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Set us as preferred When images from the set of Ryan Murphy’s “Love Story: John F.Kennedy Jr.
& Carolyn Bessette” first leaked, they set the internet ablaze.The late Bessette, who perished alongside husband JFK Jr.
and her sister, Lauren, when the plane Kennedy was piloting crashed off the coast of Martha’s Vineyard in 1999, had become a minimalist style doyenne in the few short years since her marriage to the youngest son of Camelot.Entire Instagram accounts are dedicated to documenting the clothes of the former Calvin Klein publicist, who remains immortalized as a buttery blond glamazon stalking through the New York City streets in Manolo Blahnik pumps and structured Yohji Yamamoto dresses and jackets.So when the first test shots and paparazzi photos failed, in the internet’s mind, to do justice to the reluctant American icon, longtime Murphy costume collaborator Rudy Mance was brought in to replace costume designer Leah Katznelson, an Emmy nominee in her own right for “Fleishman Is in Trouble” and Murphy’s own “Feud: Capote vs.
The Swans,” for which she won.Such intense scrutiny is indicative of the fashion world’s growing influence on costume design.Take rising Australian actor Jacob Elordi’s brand ambassadorship with Bottega Veneta, which spilled over into the costuming of the third and final season of “Euphoria”; “And Just Like That…,” which prioritizes runway looks like predecessor “Sex and the City”; or “The Bear,” where food-service employees are decked out in designer duds in a commercial kitchen.“The key to creating these brand worlds is authenticity,” says Geoff Cook, a partner at creative studio Base Design.
“When fashion in entertainment doesn’t reconcile with the content, the viewer immediately feels that it’s inauthentic.That inauthenticity has negativ...