With 15 new chophouses, New York proves its still a city of carnivores

Vegan, shmeygan — red meat in all its bloody glory is the king of New York taste.While the media hype a mostly imaginary craving for plants, seeds, obscure global delicacies and 10-seat omakase counters, the numbers tell the real story about what New Yorkers are paying to eat.Why the disconnect between popular taste and politicized shilling for plant-based diets?Max Tucci, a partner in Delmonico’s chuckled, “New York never lost its appetite for steak — it’s just the headlines that  went elsewhere.”More than 15 new steakhouses of all kinds opened in the Big Apple over the past three years, many of them 200-plus-seat giants.As many launched between 2019 and 2023.  Nearly all are thriving, notwithstanding publicity for supposedly healthier fare.

Only a tiny handful closed over the same period, most notably Porter House and a single Wolfgang’s branch out of five.The new, thundering herd included the uptown edition of Korean-style Cote; Las Vegas-inspired Golden Steer and Carver Steak; Monte Carlo-born Beefbar; Argentine-inspired Graciela and Baires Grill;  Mexican-style Cuerno; and La Tete D’or from French-born Daniel Boulud.Elder is based on British-Indian menus; Fogo de Chao brought its Brazilian style to  the World Trade Center; and Amasa goes Latin at the Kimpton Era Hotel.The most recent global tide was preceded by Salt Bae’s Nusr-Et (Turkish), Hawskmoor (English), and Carne Mare (Italian).There’s no slowing the momentum.Last year brought instantly successful Palladino’s at Grand Central Terminal.

This year  saw the Manhattan debuts of Atlantis Prime, Vinyl Steakhouse and Dynamo Room.Coming soon are one of next year’s most anticipated openings, Delmonico’s Reserve on midtown Sixth Avenue. Also coming soon are Jack D’s and Maple & Ash from Chicago, which promises to be the first  “experiential steakhouse.”Meanwhile, old-school beeferies like Peter Luger, Smith & Wollensky, Sparks, Wolfgang’s, Empire Steak a...