A former Ambassadors Clubhouse chef is really cooking at this thrilling Indian revamp

The newly revitalized Indian restaurant Passerine explores a previously undiscovered corner of the Subcontinent — a fantasy zone where Khameeri naan meets Big Apple cream cheese.The restaurant first opened in November 2024 and made less than a splash with a $140, seven-course tasting menu.But, three months ago, talented Gaurav Bhatla — previously a chef at “it” restaurant Ambassadors Clubhouse — took over and launched an a la carte format with a “New York bistro” emphasis.

The result is a devilish counterpoint to the city’s current wave of high-profile, sometimes intimidating Indian eateries.First off, its 77 seats are cozy and comfortable, unlike cramped and hard-edged Adda and Semma.The walls are colorfully decked out in jungle prints.

Tables and chairs are a bold shade of ochre-shade, but Passerine refreshingly lacks the over-the-top opulence of Mustaafer or Ambassadors Clubhouse. The menu is also wonderfully approachable and unconfined by notions of micro-regions and authenticity.  As co-owner Alvina Buxani put it, “We wanted a New York restaurant with Indian food, not one transporting you to India.”“Bombay schmear” ($18) looks and tastes like an everything bagel crossed with a tandoor-baked naan.It’s filled with masala cream cheese.

Bhatla says he was inspired by Leon’s Bagel on upper Broadway, part of a popular chain.Have it to share or you won’t have room for much else.Burrata chaat ($20) rivaled the finest Italian starter, thanks to smoked tomato slices from the Union Square Greenmarket.

A dash of cilantro made a half-hearted stab at Indian affinity. Lobster rolls ($26) are a trio of rectangular brioche slices topped by thin slices of Maine lobster and smoked tomato gravy with a hint of cardamom.They’re all fun, but the more fully Indian dishes are the menu’s high ground.The curries are mostly lighter and less creamy than your typical Indian fare.A standout was Paneer Makhmali ($32) — silky-smooth buffalo m...